Milk Paint is a natural paint. Think 100year old chippy paint and Milk Paint usually comes to mind. This post will show you how easy it is to get a smooth full coverage solid look using Milk Paint with just a few added steps.

Milk Paint by Fusion Night Swim mixed
Mixed Milk Paint in a bowl

Mixing Milk Paint

Mixing Milk Paint is really simple, just add the same amount of water to Milk Paint powder and stir. It doesn’t take long at all, maybe a minute or so. IF you have used it before you know it can sometimes look gritty. Where the pigments and other ingredients haven’t dissolved properly.

Lumpy Milk Paint

This example is extreme just to show you how it can look if you don’t allow the ingredients to dissolve. Even this isn’t a problem! You just brush back and forth and watch it blend into the paint.

Top tip to smooth Milk Paint.

The best tip for getting your mixture just right is this…. Mix as normal and go put the kettle on! …have a nice cuppa, mix again and viola! the perfect Milk Paint mixture. This blend will make the flawless flat smooth Milk Paint. For a chippy look see this post.

Sanded Milk Paint, chalky looking and smooth

Prepping for smooth modern finish.

The next step to getting a modern clean look is your prep. The usual cleaning and scuff sanding is usually enough on most no glossy surfaces to ensure a non chippy look. IF you surface is glossy a more vigorous sanding will work or just add bonding agent ( Ultra Grip ) into the mixed Milk Paint.

Ultra Grip

At a push you can add a layer of ultra grip to your piece before painting with Milk Paint, that works too. For a modern clean finish I usually just sand it well before painting.

pigmented watery paint

Sanding between coats.

For an ultra smooth finish you can lightly sand between coats, luckily Milk Paint dries very quickly and cures in 30 mins! There is only 5 natural ingredients and water, so once the water has evaporated it is cured. Compare that to modern paints on the market today and it really is amazing.

Sanded chalky looking paint

When Milk Paint dries it looks almost chalky and much lighter than the in the wet state. Do not fear! as soon as you apply any topcoat the vivid colour comes alive. When sanding be sure to wear an appropriate mask, and remove the dust before applying another coat.

Redesign with Prima Transfer.

Some interest was added to this piece with a furniture transfer, This one was the Folk 11. It has a boho vibe to it and looks great over this dark inky/navy blue.

Transfer over Milk Painted chest of drawers. Blue with white transfer

It didn’t take the whole transfer and one drawer was left with just the paint on. The over all effect looked good so now it was time to topcoat it.

Sealing Milk Paint

You can use almost any sealer / topcoat you like over Milk Paint but it does need sealing unless you are using it on walls. It is porous like chalk paint is and although really durable it will soak up water and dirt and grease. Adding a topcoat is a simple way to ensure you paint finish lasts.

Stirring a can of Stain and Finishing Oil

For this piece Stain and Finishing Oil in the natural was the perfect option. It will add a slight sheen and give it a water resistant protective finish. Alway make sure it is mixed well before using it, all the good stuff sinks to the bottom of the can. It enriches the colour and really makes it pop!

applying SFO over blue milk paint

The SFO was applied with a cloth and rubbed in circular motion across the whole piece. The excess was buffed in the same way with a clean rag. The difference between the the finish with and without a topcoat is huge, and it’s always fun to watch the colour come alive.

MCM Boho vibe

The overall look is a MCM Boho vibe and the colour gives the piece versatility. This chest of drawers would look good in a hallway a lounge or even a girls or boys bedroom.

side view of blue MCM chest of drawers

The hairpin legs give it some height and glamour. See another MCM piece painted in Fusion here.

Close up of of blue MCM chest of drawers

The wooden handle were wax with Antiquing wax and buffed to a sheen.

upward view of of blue MCM chest of drawers

The size and shape of this AustinSuite Mid Century Modern chest makes it a really useful piece of furniture and a style that never goes out of fashion.

Full frontal view of blue MCM chest of drawers

Is Milk Paint for you?

What I will say right off the bat is if you are a perfectionist this won’t be for you. Why? because there are imperfection when using Milk Paint even on a flat modern finish like this. There can be slight variations in colour or pigment streaks.

Close up of transfer on blue MCM chest of drawers

This is a natural paint with no modern binders in it. It relies on you mixing well and often durning painting to keep the mixture good. Not stirring during painting can result in the heavy pigments sinking to the bottom of your cup changing the colour of your paint very quickly and easily.

left side view
 of blue MCM chest of drawers

The many benefits of Milk Paint.

The huge list of benefits far outweigh the cons. First it is an all natural paint, ancient, tried and tested. Durable and long lasting. If you use a natural finish such a Hemp Oil you have a eco solution to painting! so not only are you saving furniture from landfill this paint is bio degradable and not harmful to our environment !It has anti bacterial properties is perfect used over lime plaster as a breathable solution.

Milk Paint by Fusion colour chart paint sticks - Home Revival Interiors

We stock the Full Range of Milk Paint by Fusion and all the topcoat options you need in our online shop. The whole process of mixing your own paint and the end result of a tactile finish is my favourite things to do. It is so therapeutic and all natural paint. Give it a try!

After closing the shop last year, I needed somewhere to work from home. I already had a She Shed rough and ready that needed some updating. If only I knew how much! Follow along the journey of My She shed workspace home office build.

She Shed

This shed is where it all began for me, This was the space I used to first start upcycling furniture almost 14 years ago. It was a bit rough but had plenty of space for my ever-growing collection of crap!

I decided on refitting this one instead of buying a new one or rebuilding … I should have thought that through a bit more ha.

After ripping off the white cladding on the front, the roof needed replacing, with new joists and well, the entire roof. I decided I needed a new door and went looking on Market Place. I found a bifold door that had been manufactured opening the wrong way for the client and so i got it for a steal.

The wall had to be knocked out and new supporting pillars built. the old windows looked taty with the new door in place, so I replaced those too.

Internal work

The inside also needed more work than I first thought, but I could see it all coming together. The floor’s wall and ceiling were waterproofed. Insulation was installed on the floor under new floorboards. All of this was done after an internal wall was knocked out.

Lighting up the she shed

The electrics was the next big job on the endless list and I made sure there were plenty of outlets and lights. I wanted some hanging lights at this end to hang over the double desks I had envisioned going here. I had mocked up a design in Canva and knew it was what I wanted.

After the electrics were installed including the internet connection which guess what? turned out to be a little bit of a nightmare! The walls were plastered and a mist coat applied before the floor went down. I opted for laminate wood flooring, it was a cheap option from B&Q and the whole flooring was very inexpensive.

New workspace and office

Next up was to get some storage sorted for the stock, at this point in time lockdown is in full swing and I’m packing boxes on my kitchen table with stockpiled up high in my hallway … not ideal. I went for these metal shelving units and sprayed the Gold, I didn’t like the steel look, with the walls being white and the floors a grey I wanted some warmth.

Next up I bought some off-the-shelf kitchen units from Wickes and Karen and I spent a good few hours putting them together. A length of faux marble worktop and some kickboards and we had a packing station and storage for boxes and my personal paint supply.

I kept my counter from the shop for storing all my tools and more of my personal paint collection and brushes etc. I must confess to a paint brush addition! Some girls like shoes.. I love brushes!

Home office

After completing the kitchen end ( all except the kickboards which I still haven’t got around to doing ) the office space was next. I had already found the desks I wanted from Ikea similar to this one and spent some more hours putting those together. I got some pretty lights and got Ed & Co Designs to make new shades for them. The office chairs I just couldn’t find in a pink anywhere so settled for these grey ones instead.

Ready for business

That essential was all done on the inside the last thing to do was the new cladding on the outside and plastic capping for the roof line. All the stock was moved and I no longer had to pack boxes on the kitchen table!

Would I do it again? I’m not going to lie, it was probably more expensive than buying one of those put-together ready-made offices. I love the space and enjoy throwing open the doors and letting the sunshine in while I’m working.

Pro’s and Con’s of working from home.

Working from home has its pros and cons like anything. I can pop in the house and put a load of washing on or dinner, the con side is I find myself in there late at night still working as I can wander back and forth between the house and the shed/office/workspace. All that being said I love the space and it works which is the most important thing.

It is a space to work in making it more enjoyable and it’s big enough to grow and change if needed. The paint looks fab on the shelves.

So what do you think? Have you got a home office? Let me know in the comments below.

This is the question I get asked the most. Do you need to prime before painting furniture? So with our modern paint, there are only two reasons why you would prime before painting. The first reason is adhesion. The second reason to prime would be to stop the bleed-through of wood tannins, Saving you time painting so let’s jump straight in.

bare wood cabinet doors

Priming for adhesion.

Let’s start by checking the surface we are going to paint. Is it shiny?  If it is shiny, we need to work out why. Has it got a varnish or lacquer on it which could be sanded? Or is it a man-made surface such as a laminate veneer or melamine?

This is varnish/lacquer and can be sanded.

If it is lacquered or varnished you can scuff sand after cleaning with a degreaser such as TSP Alternative. Your aim is to de-gloss the surface, to make it matte-looking. You can then go ahead and paint. See this blog post where this method was used.

I have a video showing you how on IGTV

If it is a man-made surface such as melamine or veneer ( wood veneers can be sanded and falls into the above category) Plastic like melamine and Thermafoil and laminate ( think Ikea furniture) will need an extra step. For these types of surfaces, you will need to clean, scuff sand if possible, and add a coat of Ultra Grip before applying your paint. 

Ultra Grip adhesion primer.

Ultra Grip is an adhesion primer from Fusion. It is made of 100% Acrylic resin (the stuff in paint that makes it stick) apply in thin coats with a damp applicator pad or sponge. Using a brush can create texture and a little of this product goes a long way. It needs to dry overnight for best results before applying your paint.

If I wanted adhesion and I was painting a dark wood to a light paint I would use Whitson’s adhesion Primer. It is a great quality white adhesion primer giving you a light coloured base to paint from.

Priming to stop wood bleed through / wood tannins/knots.

The second reason you would need to prime when using Fusion Mineral Paint is to stop knots or wood bleeding through the paint. This can happen with red coloured woods and oil knots. For this you will need a shellac based primer. This is the only stain block that works effectively with wood bleed through. It completely seals it in and stops it migrating through the paint.

Zinnser Bin stain blocker

I would recommend Zinnser Bin in the Red can in comes in a spraycan too which can be useful for just knotting. Apply a couple thin coats, it dries very fast so there isn’t much waiting time before you can paint over. You would still need to do the usual prep before using this product of cleaning and scuff sanding.

Saving time painting furniture

When I had the shop I painted all day 5 days a week and I rarely had to get the Zinnser out. I would maybe bust the can out once every 6 months or so. Checking if you need it first will save you so much time! This applies to both reasons you would use a primer for. Saving time painting.

Gold leaf a before and after.
This was red oak and needed stain block

If you think your piece may bleed test it by adding a thin coat of white paint in a spot that looks suspect. Wait 10 mins or so and see if the white paint has change colour. If so bust out the can, if not proceed with caution keeping a spray can on hand for spot control.

Despite it being metal this didn’t need Ultra Grip .. alway test first!

This metal piping was a big job and I thought it may need to be Ultra Gripped before painting. After testing first by painting a few coats of paint on a day later I couldn’t scratch it off! So testing first will help. Saving you time painting! Watch the video of that test.

Just for your reference here is Fusions Prep card to take a look at.

Hope that helps

Sarah X

Have you got a front door that’s looking a little worn? Spruce it up with a pot of Fusion Mineral Paint. It’s simple, easy, and an inexpensive way to get a brand new look. The best part is you do not need to add a topcoat! Follow along to see how easy it is to paint your front door.

a soft sage green painted front door with brass hardwear
Sacred Sage

dark brown door

Prepping your door for painting 

Prepping your door for painting is simple. Here are the steps I’d recommend. 

Prep sheet -Home Revival

Take off all the hardware from the door. This can be handles letterboxes ect. 

Mix up a small bucket with water with Fusions TSP alternative, and scrub that front door. A kitchen greeny would work well for this. There’s lots of grime and dirt from things like roads, and daily life, so this step is crucial for prepping your door. 

Fusion Mineral paint TSP
TSP removes all grease, oils, and dirt.

How to scuff sand funriture

gloves with sand papaer in hand shaped attached  to the glove

After cleaning well with TSP leave the door to dry thoroughly. Once dry you can scuff sand the entire door. Making sure to sand in the direction of the wood grain. This is important so you don’t see the sanding marks, going against the grain even with paint over top can be seen through the finish.

Scuff sanding is just giving the surface a ‘key’ or ‘tooth’ this is only needed on surfaces that have paint or finish already on them, especially if the surface is shiny. We are trying to matt the surface not remove the finish.

After removing all of the dust from sanding you are ready to apply your first coat of paint. See this blog post about prepping your furniture ready for paint.

Less Paint is more.

When applying paint especially to a front door, less is definitely more. You want to apply the paint in thin even coats. I’ll pre-warn you, the first coat will look scary, just trust the process, and just know that once you apply the second coat it will begin to look amazing.

A roller tray and white paint
You can use a roller and tray or a brush!
pack of roller and frame
You can get these from my website HERE

A brush or a roller or both is good for this project. You can roller the larger flat areas and use a brush for the crevices and detail work. I just used a brush for this door, just do what is best for you!

3 different brushes
Click here to see all brushes

When allowing the first coat of paint to dry, remember to leave the door propped open. Sunny dry weather conditions are always better for this. I would also recommend starting this project in the morning. After the first coat dries apply the second coat of paint. Again make sure the door is propped open for drying.  As it’s an outside door there will be seals and flush fittings that can mark your new paint.  

2 colours tipped out on the surface
Not all colours will cover in one coat! don’t fret the second coat is when the magic happens

Once the second coat is dry you can reattach all of the hardware you removed when prepping the door. Your now ready to style it up and take a picture! 

Video showing you how to paint a front door. 

I painted this front door Live on my Facebook page. You can see how quickly the job is to do and so is easily manageable in a day. The prep was done before we went live and my customer had a a new look door for under £22! How great is that?

You can watch that video here

Let me know in the comments if it has inspired you to paint your front door, and if you don’t already please pop over to my Instagram account and give me a follow! It really helps small businesses such as mine.

painted front door slightly ajar

A guest blog post.

Hi Sarah here!

I have had such great feedback from the last guest blog post we are having a little run of them! I’m so pleased to be able to highlight some of the talent we have here in the UK and Laura Downes is no exception!

Laura’s business is Cherbubs Chalk Interiors, you should pop over to her Facebook Page a give her a like! Laura is currently renovating her home office space and has kindly shared this brilliant filing cabinet makeover.

Introducing Laura.

My filing cabinet transformation:

Let me give you a little backstory…

When I started my business, I soon realised that there are many rules and regulations to adhere to, including the all-important data protection. We must keep all documents containing customers details in a locked cabinet, so I started looking into lockable filing cabinets. I found that these can be expensive! And money can be tight in the early stages of building a business. There are a lot of outgoings, as you buy in materials, equipment, marketing etc and there is not so much money coming in! With this in mind, I started hunting for a second-hand filing cabinet, who knew this would be so difficult? The majority of them don’t lock, and the ones that do, don’t come with a key, as it has been lost long ago. Still, after a few weeks of looking, I snatched this one up for £20. Bargain! But boy is it ugly 😳 

A plain filing cabinet ready for a makeover!

Luckily, painting things pretty is what I do, so here I will show you how this filing cabinet went from drab to fab, and now fits in with my office. 

Looking for inspiration

I started off, not quite sure how I wanted my office to look. I admire so many different styles, and there are so many colours to choose from. Decision making isn’t always my strong point. So I headed over to Pinterest, seeking inspiration from others who had transformed their workspace into a homely, environment. Here, I was able to see what I did and didn’t like, decide what I wanted to include, and then I made a mood board.

Home Revival has a whole board dedicated to Home Office

I don’t know about you, but, paperwork isn’t my thing. It’s boring, complicated and I just struggle to find time for it. I’m a creative and I just want to be playing about getting my hands dirty.  What I’m trying to say is, I find office work uninspiring and I do everything I can to avoid it, which means I leave everything to the last minute and then I turn into a total stress head, trying to get the invoices sent out, the finances to add up, and the tax return in on time. SO, the plan = to create a gorgeous cosy workspace to encourage me to spend time and actually enjoy this really important aspect of my business. 

Choosing colours: 

For a while now, I’ve been totally in love with Fusion Mineral Paint, it’s smooth, it’s creamy, it’s a dream to work with and it’s oh so durable. Their colours are just divine, but there are so many to choose from! I knew I wanted pink, but which pink? I grabbed the different shades I had to hand and started testing them out. 

Fusion Mineral Paint comes in over 50 colours

For my project, I chose Damask and Metallic Copper. 


Your finish is only ever as good as your prep. Cleaning is always the first step. This is a second-hand piece, I don’t know where it has been, or what it endured before I got my hands on it. Now, it looked pretty clean, but don’t let that fool you. I’ve come across pieces that appear clean until you start scrubbing, and the cleaning cloth turns black. 🤢 I took all of the drawers out, and all of the hardware I could remove, to ensure I got into every single nook and cranny. I use grime cutter, spray it on, wipe with warm water, let dry and then wipe again with a wet cloth.  

Cleaning your project is essential.

I’d never painted metal before, so this was something I wanted to research, to ensure a long-lasting finish. As metal is such a smooth, shiny, non-porous surface, it needs a bit of help and priming to make sure that the paint is going to stick. Fusion sells a product called Ultra Grip, by applying this to smooth surfaces, it gives the paint something to grab onto. I applied ultra grip all over, using a roller and a brush in the hard to reach areas, and let dry overnight. Always make sure to clean your brush as soon as you’ve finished, if you leave it to dry out you will find it very hard to bring the brush back to life. 

Now for the exciting bit! 

First I apply masking tape around the edges of the drawers, to ensure smooth clean lines. I don’t want any paint to run down the sides of the drawers. 

Damask and Copper hardwear.

Once that’s done, I can start painting. I applied 2 coats of Damask, again using a roller and brush, leaving a few hours in between each coat. Then I painted the hardware copper. Once all was dry I fitted it all back together and TADAAAA! She’s ready to go back in my office.

Before & After

Keep an eye on our Facebook page Cherubs Chalk Interiors for the next instalment. I’ll be painting my leather swivel chair to match! 

Thanks for letting me share my project with you.

Laura X

Painting leather with Fusion Mineral Paint

Painting leather with Fusion Mineral Paint.
We have a lovely client whom we helped on a huge interior job a little while back. We helped with lighting flooring, obviously furniture and some accessories too. We had a blast sourcing her very specific furniture requirements, one of which was an industrial vintage style table and chairs, we struggled to find exactly what she wanted but did come up with some ‘out of the box’ ideas. Take a look, what do you think ? is it not fabulous? doesn’t it look like a magazine article?

We sourced an original BierKeler table and matching benches and grey washed the very orange wood, we sealed it with Polyvine dead flat varnish and it looks amazing.

That was the dining room the other end of the room, the living room end is where we had some fun.
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