Tag Archives: prep

This is the question I get asked the most. Do you need to prime before painting furniture? So with our modern paint, there are only two reasons why you would prime before painting. The first reason is adhesion. The second reason to prime would be to stop the bleed-through of wood tannins, Saving you time painting so let’s jump straight in.

bare wood cabinet doors

Priming for adhesion.

Let’s start by checking the surface we are going to paint. Is it shiny?  If it is shiny, we need to work out why. Has it got a varnish or lacquer on it which could be sanded? Or is it a man-made surface such as a laminate veneer or melamine?

This is varnish/lacquer and can be sanded.

If it is lacquered or varnished you can scuff sand after cleaning with a degreaser such as TSP Alternative. Your aim is to de-gloss the surface, to make it matte-looking. You can then go ahead and paint. See this blog post where this method was used.

I have a video showing you how on IGTV

If it is a man-made surface such as melamine or veneer ( wood veneers can be sanded and falls into the above category) Plastic like melamine and Thermafoil and laminate ( think Ikea furniture) will need an extra step. For these types of surfaces, you will need to clean, scuff sand if possible, and add a coat of Ultra Grip before applying your paint. 

Ultra Grip adhesion primer.

Ultra Grip is an adhesion primer from Fusion. It is made of 100% Acrylic resin (the stuff in paint that makes it stick) apply in thin coats with a damp applicator pad or sponge. Using a brush can create texture and a little of this product goes a long way. It needs to dry overnight for best results before applying your paint.

If I wanted adhesion and I was painting a dark wood to a light paint I would use Whitson’s adhesion Primer. It is a great quality white adhesion primer giving you a light coloured base to paint from.

Priming to stop wood bleed through / wood tannins/knots.

The second reason you would need to prime when using Fusion Mineral Paint is to stop knots or wood bleeding through the paint. This can happen with red coloured woods and oil knots. For this you will need a shellac based primer. This is the only stain block that works effectively with wood bleed through. It completely seals it in and stops it migrating through the paint.

Zinnser Bin stain blocker

I would recommend Zinnser Bin in the Red can in comes in a spraycan too which can be useful for just knotting. Apply a couple thin coats, it dries very fast so there isn’t much waiting time before you can paint over. You would still need to do the usual prep before using this product of cleaning and scuff sanding.

Saving time painting furniture

When I had the shop I painted all day 5 days a week and I rarely had to get the Zinnser out. I would maybe bust the can out once every 6 months or so. Checking if you need it first will save you so much time! This applies to both reasons you would use a primer for. Saving time painting.

Gold leaf a before and after.
This was red oak and needed stain block

If you think your piece may bleed test it by adding a thin coat of white paint in a spot that looks suspect. Wait 10 mins or so and see if the white paint has change colour. If so bust out the can, if not proceed with caution keeping a spray can on hand for spot control.

Despite it being metal this didn’t need Ultra Grip .. alway test first!

This metal piping was a big job and I thought it may need to be Ultra Gripped before painting. After testing first by painting a few coats of paint on a day later I couldn’t scratch it off! So testing first will help. Saving you time painting! Watch the video of that test.

Just for your reference here is Fusions Prep card to take a look at.

Hope that helps

Sarah X

This old bedside table had once started life as a desk! It was damaged beyond repair and so was chopped up. It already had been painted in Milk Paint so when the new Milk Paint by Fusion arrived in the shop I wanted to use some of the new colours.

old chippy paint nightstand
It had seen better days!

Prep for Milk Paint

Prepping for Milk Paint is similar to prepping with Fusion.. Except there is the chance of Milk Paint ‘chipping’ So what do you do if you don’t want chipping and you just want a smooth modern finish? No problem you just add Bonding agent ( Ultra Grip ) into your mixed Milk Paint after you have cleaned well with TSP and scuffed sanded. Wondering what the difference is between Milk Paint and Fusion? See my previous post here.

bottle of ultra grip Home Revival Interiors
Ultra grip and Bonding Agent is the very same thing.

Getting Milk Paint to Chip

If you don’t mind chipping or you want it , just clean and paint. If you surface has a finish on it like varnish or lacquer the chances are it will resist those areas and you’ll get some chipping. This is the kicker! You don’t know if you will get some or not, it may resist everywhere or nowhere. So you have to be ok with that.

A chippy paint finish on a vintage style sideboard

With that being said the more you Milk Paint the more you get a feel for what will and what won’t chip. If you don’t want any chipping just add Bonding Agent to your first coat after proper prep. No chips! The other way to guarantee no chipping is to use it on raw wood. It soaks in and binds with the wood fibers almost like a stain so no chipping at all!

A small bedside table painted in a soft aqua blue with gold hardware and legs. Bedroom scene
Smooth flawless finish. Amalfi Coast Milk Paint by Fusion

Prepping the bedside

I don’t mind chipping and as this bedside already had some so I just sanded off all the loose Milk Paint. Word of warning, this stuff is tough! Normal paint stripper won’t touch it so sanding really is your easiest option. After sanding I filled the holes from the old hardware

A drawer front sanded and filled with wood filler

Layering Milk Paint

As Milk Paint is just powder mixed with water it is thinner than regular paint. There are a few bonuses to this, 1 it leaves zero brushstrokes, I mean you can put this on with a sweeping brush and still not get any brushstrokes! OK I may be overstating but it really is almost impossible.

The other added bonus is because it is so thin you can layer multiple coats of paint without the build-up you would get using regular paint. This makes it great for those 2 toned or even 3 toned layered looks. An authentic aged look of being painted many times over its life. It’s not for everyone but it can look delicious on the right piece.

Homestead House Milk Paint -Solider Blue

Homestead House has manufactured Milk Paint for decades! In fact, it manufactures Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint, Milk Paint by Fusion as well as having a huge range of colours in their own line. You should check them out here. I used Solider Blue for the base coat, it is a beautiful bold almost royal blue.

Packet of Homestead House Solider Blue Milk Paint and a cup with mixed milk paint.
one part water to one part Milk Paint = no wastage

I applied one coat all over the bedside and allowed it to dry. Did you know Milk Paint only takes approx 30 to cure! not just dry, cure! another bonus to using Milk Paint.

The first brushstroke across the front of a drawer
Blue paint being brushed on drawer front

Milk Paint by Fusion

Monterey from the new Milk Paint by Fusion line was the colour I choose to layer over top of Solider Blue. It has an almost grey green stormy seas sorta vibe to it. You must know I love green by now!😜 Just one coat as I wanted to sand through the layer almost leaving just a hint of the colour behind.

MCM painted sideboard styled in a frontroom
Monterey Milk Paint by Fusion

This is one of my favourite picture of some stormy seas in Port Issac in Cornwall and this colour reminds me of it.

Stormy blue green grey seas in a  cove
Almost a perfect match right!?

I did get a little chipping and I was ok with that. I could have prevented this had I wanted to by adding Ultra Grip to the mixed Milk Paint.

Milk Paint beginning to chip as it dries

Finishing touches

The drawers got a little peekaboo pop of colour with Hawaiian Hibiscus a beautiful coral/red. I also used one of the stencils from the Posh Chalk range, this one is called Woodubends they have over 30 designs from A4 to floor and wall sizes and if you haven’t seen them yet you are missing out!

Vector of stencil

The stencil design was painted with Posh Chalk pigments and Whitson’s Lacquer. The lacquer has a beautiful semi-gloss sheen which keeps the pigments bright and metallic. I used 2 different coloured pigments the Pale Gold and Orange Gold mixed to make a brassy tone.

side view of opened drawers on bedsides bright coral and gold
inside view of coral and gold drawers
For sale over on my website

Hemp Oil sanding

Milk Paint has to be sealed, it can be sealed with your favourite top coat or you can use wax, Tough Coat, Hemp Oil, or even Stain & Finishing Oil. My favourite is Hemp Oil, I just love the feel of the finish. Milk Paint is cool to the touch and very tactile when finished with Hemp Oil.

side view of bedside table painted in chippy layered milk paint finish

I applied the Hemp Oil and using a soft sanding sponge I sanded the piece all over gently. It revealed the base coat of Solider Blue and in some spots the original paint colour. I added some new drawer knobs and buffed the piece all over for the smoothest feeling finish and a subtle lustre.

chippy paint finish
Chippy layered Milk Paint
gold highlight details on legs of bedside table
Cute little metallic socks
front view of bedside table painted with gold knob handles
A great guest room or sofa end table

Ao what do you think? Is the Chippy Look for you? Or would you like to see a smooth flawless finish next time? Leave a comment and let me know πŸ™‚

A few weeks ago a client asked me to paint a large French sideboard for her. It had been previously painted and I had just a picture to go off. There was some distressing on the piece from what I could see and I thought I’d be able to prep and smooth out the distressing and repaint.

This piece was in storage.

My client had sent me some images from Pinterest of the finish she wanted for this piece, and I was excited to get it started. I have lots of furniture on my Inspiration Board on my Pinterest account, you can check it out here.

Open Pinterest click the camera icon and old it over this Pin code … watch the magic happen!

When the 7ft+ piece arrived I quickly saw that the paint was not going to be easily smoothed out, it was heavily distressed and the paint was thick! It would need stipping! That wasn’t going to be any small feat but I applied some chemical paint stripper to one of the drawers to see how well it would work. While I was waiting ( impatiently ) I grabbed my heat gun to see if I could get it off that way.

The Heat gun worked well but I very quickly realized that there had been zero prep done on this sideboard because the paint was coming off in strips! It seemed that the heat was warming up the original wax enabling the paint to just slide right off! I have a Facebook Live video showing a little bit of that process.

https://www.facebook.com/home.revival.1/videos/1128185310708679/
Why NO PREP is not a good idea!

Correct Prep.

When I had stripped off all the old paint I used white spirits and some steel wool to remove the wax. I did a very quick video on removing wax on FB you can see that here. The white spirits breaks down the wax and the steel wool removes it. When it was dry I used Fusion Tsp to clean it and a wire brush to scuff it. The surface was now wax-free cleaned and scuff sanded. The perfect surface for your paint!

Prep almost done, ready for paint.

“Your paint job is only as good as the surface its going on”

Some very wise woman once said

It was ready for the good stuff now and I got started using Fusions Coal Black and a good quality Staalmeester brush and it went on like a dream! The first coat looked amazing already and I knew it was gonna be a knockout!

Smooth Brushstroke Free finish
Fusion Mineral Paint Coal Black

The second coat went on just as smooth and I used some steel wool to buff up the hardware. It turned out great and the client is happy! I enjoyed painting this one despite the extra work. It has a wonderful classic timeless look and I am more than confident that this will last for many years to come.

The hardware came up great with a little buff with steel wool.
2 coats of Coal Black

In the Clients home.

I Don’t often get to see the pieces I paint in their forever homes so I love it when the client sends me pictures. It now takes pride of place in her home and what a statement piece it is!

Lamps and mirror also available at the shop

Let me know what you think?

Sarah X

Painting a car interior with Fusion Mineral Paint.

Painting a car interior with Fusion Mineral Paint.

painting a car with Fusion Mineral Paint.

Interior of the car.

Painting a car interior with Fusion Mineral Paint.

Um yeh, I know it’s absurd! and right off I’d like to say that Fusion Mineral Paint was designed as a furniture paint. But the product is excellent and hardwearing and can be used on so many surfaces, so I’ll explain how we got our weirdest commission ….to date πŸ˜‰

A few posts ago we did an interior revamp for a lovely client and ended up painting her leather armchair. It no longer went with her design and it was headed for the local landfill, so we thought why not! fast forward to a couple weeks ago and her husband who is a car dealer asked if we could spruce up the leather interior of a Mercedes convertible. You see he sits on that leather armchair night after night, the kids jump on it and so does the dog. His thinking was that if the paint held up to all that it should work just great in the car.

We explained to him that it wasn’t meant for this purpose and we couldn’t guarantee that it would have a long life, but he decided he wanted to go ahead.

Here is a before of the car interior.

painting a car with Fusion Mineral Paint.

Seat with yellow insert

PrepΒ 

We were asked to paint all the yellow parts of the interior, and he decided he wanted to go black. The seats we knew would be easy and durable but the dash board etc was made of a combintion of rubber type material and plastic.

It took a bit of time to prep and tape everything up, it was cleaned and prepped with a lttle sanding using our fabulous Sandi Hands. They came in useful in the hard to reach areas.

painting a car with Fusion Mineral Paint

It’s all in the prep work

 

painting a car with Fusion Mineral Paint.

masking the door panels.

 

It probably took just as long to prep as it did to paint, but this wasnt the type of job you could just start over.

painting a car with Fusion Mineral Paint.

Hard at work

Starting the fun part.

Once all the prep was done and we were sure we had masked everything, it was time to start painting. We were so excited! and at one point we had maybe 5 men all standing around the car, arms folded shaking their heads and mumbling under their breath! sooo funny.

It took about 2-3 coats all over, a variety of different brushes were used including a roller for the leather seats.

painting a car with Fusion Mineral Paint.

First coat applied with a roller.

 

painting a car with Fusion Mineral Paint.

centre panel being painted.

Everything was given one to two thin coats the first day and left overnight. The third coat is were it all started coming together.

painting a car interior with Fusion Mineral Paint.

Looks better even after one coat!

 

painting a car interior with Fusion Mineral Paint

The dashboard and door inserts after 3 light coats.

 

The car had to be kept inside on day 2 as it was raining and we needed the roof down , so the pics could be better but I think even in this light it’s clear there is a massive improvment.

painting a car interior with Fusion Mineral Paint.

nearly done, just the tape to remove and touch ups to be done.

 

After the 3 light coat the tape was removed and a few touch ups done and it was ready! We are dissapointed we haven’t got a beauty shot with the car all washed in some pretty location, but the weather had been real bad and before it cleared up the dealer sold it !

painting a car interior wit Fusion Mineral Paint.

Still drying but a huge improvement from the banana yellow.

 

painting a car interior with Fusion Mineral Paint.

Finishing touch ups done.

 

In the picture above the chairs are still drying but the centre panels and dash has dryed to a lovely matte finish. It was a intricate job but we really enjoyed the challenge.

We often say in our trade that we would ‘paint anything’ and now we can tick a car off the list.

We would love to hear what you think , leave a coment and let us know.

Sarah x

 

to see the leather armchair painted in Fusion Mineral paint click here.

Painting leather with Fusion Mineral Paint