Painting leather with Fusion Mineral Paint.
We have a lovely client whom we helped on a huge interior job a little while back. We helped with lighting flooring, obviously furniture and some accessories too. We had a blast sourcing her very specific furniture requirements, one of which was an industrial vintage style table and chairs, we struggled to find exactly what she wanted but did come up with some ‘out of the box’ ideas. Take a look, what do you think ? is it not fabulous? doesn’t it look like a magazine article?
We sourced an original BierKeler table and matching benches and grey washed the very orange wood, we sealed it with Polyvine dead flat varnish and it looks amazing.
That was the dining room the other end of the room, the living room end is where we had some fun.
Zoe and I are delighted to announce that we are certified and approved stockists for the fabulous MMSMP and Fusion Mineral Paint. Stock will be arriving soon and we can’t wait to get stuck in .
Waxing frustrations and tips.
Everyone who paints furniture has, at one time or another wanted to launch the tin of wax out the window! …It’s true, don’t deny it!
smudgy greasy marks, streaks, spots, dots and dull patches.
Now I’ve heard all sorts of tips and tricks since I began painting nearly a decade ago, most of them are just incorrect or unhelpful. I heard this one a couple years ago and I laughed and laughed and laughed…. ok that’s a bit mean but COME ON !!!!
‘waxing should be effortless and no exertion should be used’
AS Paris Grey waxed.
Emperors Silk AS chalk paint and Dark wax, buffed to a sheen.
Aubusson AS chalk paint Dark wax glazed
Anyone reading this who has waxed anything bigger than a postage stamp knows this is simply not true, I mean if you haven’t worked up a bit of a glow after waxing a chest or bedside I don’t know what to say ( which makes a change ).
All jesting aside, it did make me wonder if it contributes to the endless frustrations about waxing.
waxing frustrations and tips
You often see wax tutorials on Youtube where they are swirling the wax in a circular motion across the top of a table or sideboard, now all of this is only my humble opinion but, this is not the Karate Kid people! it’s not wax on wax off.
As with paint, it should be applied in the direction of the woodgrain and when all said and done you should not be able to see the manner in which it was applied.
#Top Tip 1
I use a dense sponge to apply wax and do a small section at a time, wiping the excess off in the direction of the wood before starting the next area. When the wax has had time to harden a little and the spirits to evaporate off, I buff with a lint-free cloth in the direction of the wood. Dark wax should be applied over clear wax, at least on porous painted furniture like Chalk or Milk.
#Top Tip 2
Put some dark wax and a little white spirits in an inexpensive squirty bottle, similar to the type your kitchen cleaner comes in. Let the dark wax dissolve until you have a liquid consistency then once your clear wax is dry, spray the liquid dark wax. Cover a small area and wipe off. It’s easier to control and because diluted, it sits nicely into the carvings and hard to reach nooks and crannies much easier. In essence, you are getting a wax glaze.
#Top Tip 3
Pick up the can of wax and…..
I have actually done that!
Only kidding, like with anything worth doing it just takes some practice, so don’t give up.
I must say that after using Annie Sloan wax for years and coming across these issues time and again I was skeptical when I was told of Homestead House’s wax, but after trying it I could not believe the difference! It’s smooth and creamy and buttery soft and melts into the paint so none of the above issues. If you have had troubles in the past with waxing and are ready to throw the towel in I highly recommend it giving these waxes a try. They come in 4 colours, a clear, Espresso, Black, and White.